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Termite Inspection Melbourne

Inner West Melbourne

Termite Treatment Melbourne

Found live termites in Yarraville, Footscray or Altona? We treat the active workings, then eliminate the colony with a plan built to AS 3660.2.

Last updated 22 September 2026

What's included

  • A full inspection of the affected building to map every point of termite activity before treatment starts
  • Direct treatment of live workings by dusting or foaming so the termiticide travels back to the nest
  • A written treatment proposal explaining the options, the products proposed and what each one achieves
  • Chemical soil treatment around the perimeter and subfloor where a treated zone is the right long-term answer
  • Baiting and monitoring stations where soil access is limited or the nest sits in a tree or retaining wall
  • A treatment certificate and site plan for your records, plus a follow-up check that activity has stopped

Signs you need this

  • Live termites, soft white insects or soldiers with brown heads, found in timber, walls or the garden
  • Mud tubes running up stumps, piers, brick footings or the inside of the subfloor walls
  • Skirting boards, architraves or door frames that sound hollow or crumble when pressed
  • A pre-purchase or annual inspection report that has flagged active termites or recent damage
  • Bubbling or rippled paint on plaster walls with no obvious plumbing leak behind it
  • Neighbours in the street have had termites treated, especially in older weatherboard pockets

How It Works

Four steps for termite treatment melbourne

01Inspect and Map the Activity

We inspect the whole building, not just the spot you found, using moisture meters and a thermal camera to trace where the termites are entering and how far the workings extend.

02Plan the Treatment

You receive a written proposal setting out the recommended method, whether that is direct treatment plus a chemical treated zone, a baiting program, or a combination, with the reasons for each.

03Treat the Colony

Active workings are dusted or foamed first so the termites carry the product home, then the treated zone or bait stations go in to cut the colony off from the house.

04Protect and Monitor

We return to confirm activity has ceased, issue your treatment records, and set up annual inspections so any new approach from the soil or a neighbouring nest is caught early.

Why termite treatment is different in the Inner West

Melbourne’s Inner West is good termite country. The clay soils along the Maribyrnong River and Stony Creek hold moisture well into summer, mature eucalypts in the street and in back gardens provide food and nesting sites, and the housing stock gives subterranean termites plenty to eat. Federation and Edwardian weatherboards in Yarraville, Seddon and Kingsville sit on timber stumps over shallow subfloors, and the post-war brick veneer homes of Altona, Sunshine and Braybrook hide timber frames behind a single skin of brick that termites can climb inside unseen.

The species responsible for most of the damage we treat is Coptotermes acinaciformis. It builds large colonies, often in the base of a living tree or an old stump, and forages out through the soil to timber up to several house blocks away. Nasutitermes exitiosus also occurs across the west, usually from a mound nest in a garden bed or under a slab, and needs a slightly different approach. Locals still call both of them white ants, but they are not ants at all, and the products that control ants do nothing useful against them.

Termite damage is generally not covered by home insurance in Australia. If a colony gets into your bearers and joists, the repair bill is yours. That is why treatment has to be aimed at the colony, not just the timber you happened to notice them in.

What happens on treatment day

The inspection comes first

Every treatment begins with a full termite inspection of the building. We need to find every entry point, trace the workings with a moisture meter and thermal camera, check the subfloor and roof void, and work out where the moisture that is attracting them comes from. A leaking shower base or a garden bed built up against weatherboards will undo an otherwise good treatment.

Treating the live workings

Active workings are treated directly. Depending on the timber and the moisture in the galleries, that means a fine termiticide dust blown into the workings or a non-repellent foam expanded through them. The termites do not detect the product, so they keep feeding, groom each other and carry it back through the colony. The workings are opened carefully, treated and closed again so the termites keep using them.

Cutting the colony off from the house

Direct treatment deals with the termites currently in the building. The second half of the job stops the colony, or the next one, coming back. Under AS 3660.2, the Australian Standard for termite management in existing buildings, there are two main routes.

A chemical soil treatment creates a continuous treated zone around and under the building. Soil against footings is trenched and treated, subfloor soil is rodded, and paths, patios and garage slabs are drilled and injected at set spacings. We favour non-repellent termiticides, such as fipronil-based products, because termites pass through the treated soil unaware and transfer the product to nest mates. Repellent products like bifenthrin form a zone termites avoid, which protects the building but does not reduce the colony. A termite barrier of this kind is the usual retrofit for existing homes and must be renewed at the interval on the product label.

The other route is a termite baiting system. In-ground stations are placed around the perimeter and, where there is active feeding, above-ground boxes go directly on the workings. The bait contains a chitin synthesis inhibitor that stops the termites moulting, and colony elimination follows over weeks to months as it spreads through the nest. Baiting suits slab homes surrounded by paving, townhouse infill from the 1990s and 2000s with shared walls, and blocks where the nest is obviously in a large tree.

Often the right answer is a combination: dust the workings, install a treated zone on the accessible sides and bait where drilling would be impractical. The written proposal sets this out before any product goes in.

After the treatment

We come back to confirm the workings are dead, then issue a treatment certificate and site plan that record what was done, where and with which product. Buyers, conveyancers and future pest managers will ask for them.

Foraging termites from a new colony can reach a treated zone, which is why AS 3660.2 recommends inspections at least annually, and more often where the risk is high. An annual termite inspection checks the treated zone is intact, looks for bridging over it, and catches any new activity while it is still cheap to deal with.

You can help too: clear blocked subfloor vents, fix leaking taps and overflow pipes, keep firewood off the ground and away from the walls, and keep garden beds below the slab edge or damp course.

Local factors we plan around

Weatherboards on stumps in Yarraville, Seddon and Kingsville usually have a subfloor we can crawl through, which makes rodding and treating the soil under the house straightforward. Brick veneer on a slab in Altona or Sunshine needs attention at the slab edge, the weep holes and every concrete path that runs against the wall. The old warehouses and factories converted to apartments in Footscray and Spotswood carry heavy hardwood beams that termites love, and little record of any earlier treatment. Townhouse infill on subdivided blocks brings shared walls and small courtyards, so we often need to talk with the neighbour before a full treated zone is possible.

When to book

If you have found live termites, do not spray them, do not open more of the wall and do not pull the timber apart. Leave the area dark and undisturbed and get in touch. The sooner active workings are treated, the smaller the damage and the better the chance of a clean colony elimination. Our technicians hold the licensing Victoria requires for pest management, and the first step is always an inspection and a written plan. Contact us for a free quote anywhere in the Inner West.

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about termite treatment melbourne

I have found live termites. What should I do right now?
Leave them exactly where they are. Do not spray them, do not pull the timber apart and do not flood the area with water. Disturbed termites abandon that spot and reappear somewhere you cannot see. If you have already opened a wall or skirting, tape a piece of cardboard over the hole to keep the area dark and humid, then contact us so the workings can be treated while the termites are still feeding there.
Can I just spray the termites with something from the hardware store?
Please do not. Surface sprays kill the few hundred workers you can see and repel the rest, which sends the colony to another part of the house. A colony of Coptotermes acinaciformis can hold hundreds of thousands of insects, and the nest is usually in the ground or a tree nearby, not in your wall. Effective treatment gets a slow-acting product back to that nest, which needs the termites to keep feeding undisturbed.
What is the difference between dusting, foaming and a chemical treated zone?
Dusting and foaming are direct treatments of live workings. A fine termiticide dust or an expanding foam is applied into the galleries so the termites carry it back and share it through the colony. A chemical treated zone is soil treatment around the building, installed by trenching, rodding and drilling, that stops termites reaching the timber from the ground. Most homes with active termites need both: direct treatment first, then a treated zone or baiting to protect the building long term.
Which is better for my home, a chemical treated zone or baiting?
It depends on the building. Weatherboard homes on stumps in Yarraville or Seddon often suit a treated zone because the subfloor soil is accessible. Slab homes with paving on every side, townhouses with shared walls, or blocks where the nest is clearly in a big eucalypt often suit baiting, because the stations can intercept termites without drilling every path. Both are recognised under AS 3660.2, and we explain the reasoning in the written proposal before anything goes in.
Are the termiticides safe for my family and pets?
Products used for termite treatment in Australia are registered by the APVMA and applied according to the label, which sets the rates, placement and any re-entry requirements. Non-repellent termiticides are placed in the soil or directly into termite workings rather than on surfaces people touch. We ask that children and pets stay out of the treatment areas while work is under way and let you know when it is fine to return.
How long does a termite treatment take, and when will the termites be gone?
Direct treatment of workings usually takes part of a day, and a full perimeter treated zone on an average Inner West block is generally done in a day or two depending on how much concrete has to be drilled. Colony elimination is not instant. After dusting or baiting, activity typically declines over the following weeks as the product moves through the colony. We schedule a follow-up visit to confirm the workings are dead before we sign the job off.
Will my home insurance cover the treatment or the damage?
In almost every case, no. Standard Australian home insurance policies exclude damage caused by termites and other timber pests, and they do not pay for treatment. That is why early detection matters so much, and why an annual termite inspection is worth keeping up once the treatment is done. The cost of a yearly check is small next to the cost of replacing bearers, joists or a wall frame.

Book termite treatment

Tell us about your property and we will come back with a quote and available inspection times.

Book your termite inspection today

Or call us at 0468 022 662